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Suit Supply MTM Suit: Reflections

This is a part of a series on an MTM 3 piece suit made for me by Suit Supply.

Click here to learn more about part II of the series, which I addressed my first-fitting experience at the store and the alterations I went for after putting on the garment.

First of all, apologies to those of you who have been looking forward to this article for a while. The reason why this writing has been taking a while has to attributed to the fact that my thoughts on this suit have changed quite drastically from the day of the first-fitting.

This includes not just my choice of the cloth, but also how I think about the fit and the construction of the garment.

For this reason, this would be more like a reflection rather than a review; unlike what I would usually do for my other crafts-related articles.

To start off, I have to admit that this is a very bold suit that I have created.

Surely, the little details like the red highlight for the lapel and sleeves buttonholes have certainly added a level of playfulness to the jacket.

But these could be removed simply by sending it to someone who is willing to restitch the buttonholes.

And this is typically common with those who take orders of adding a Milanese buttonhole to an existing jacket. So no big deal.

What is permanent, however, is the cloth I have chosen for the suit.

As much as I have enjoyed the crispness of the Holland & Sherry cloth (Product Code: 318068) initially, I soon came realized how transparent the fabric appears under bright light. (You would see later in this article, this really made it not the perfect cloth for a pair of trousers...)

Really, this shouldn't be surprising considering it is a cream material with a weight of 9oz. In fact, it would actually make a quite ideal option if one is looking to use it for a white dinner jacket, like Sean Connery as Bond in Goldfinger.

Then there are also issues of the cloth not clinching very well, as best demonstrated by the area between the left chest and the front seam.

Photo credit: The Merchant Fox

So if I could have a second chance, especially now that I have looked into more fabrics, what I would have chosen alternatively would perhaps be Fox Brothers' 290g Cricket White Worsted Flannel (Product Code: FS625 A1290/77).

It would still make a great year-round suit that I could wear during the warmer days in Hong Kong and during the chilly yet sunny days in London.

That being said, this also depends on whether the shop could get access to the cloth. Unfortunately for this case, this wasn't an option anyway.

This brings us to the second point, regarding the construction of the suit.

In the piece about the first-fitting, I mentioned how the proportion of the jacket is slightly off, especially with the width of the sleeves and the drop between the chest and the waist.

Now that I have both taken in, however, I realize the pivotal issue here is instead the buttoning point of the jacket; and this is a point which Suit Supply should take note on.

A rather problematic aspect about their MTM suits is that although you could change the buttoning point of a jacket to be slightly higher or lower than the waistline depending on your taste, you cannot change the distance between the buttons.

Considering I am a rather shorter man and thus the length of the jacket should be shortened for this purpose, the distance of the buttons should then be minimized in order to make the jacket proportional.

In that case, I would recommend all of you shorter gents out there to go for a one-button configuration if you're interested in getting an MTM jacket from Suit Supply.

Speaking of the proportions of the jacket, I should also point out that the flap pockets are rather oversized for a jacket of this size.