TPR 3 Piece Suit - Second Fitting

Updated: Jan 13, 2019

This is a part of a series on a bespoke 3 piece suit made for me by the Hong Kong tailor house Tai Pan Row.


Click here to learn more about part II of the series, which I addressed the time I went for the first-fitting, as well as how my design is starting to come into reality.



When I visited Tai Pan Row again for the second-fitting, I could see things are starting to come along quite nicely already.


Most of the alteration decisions I made during the first-fitting have come in place, as well as the waistcoat being ready for the fitting.


For now, let's dissect this article into 3 different parts; each addressing a specific garment.



Let's start with the trousers.


First of all, I am quite satisfied with the decisions to take in some extra fabrics from the back thigh area. As you could see from the picture above, the part where my thighs are look less baggy as compared to the previous version.


The width of the trousers probably has reached its equilibrium as well. Any further attempts to make it even slimmer would make the pleats in the front start to drag outwards, depleting the required excess fabrics to construct a good-looking pleat.



While the cuff of the trousers still needs to be extended for a quarter of an inch or so; this is again not a big issue and does not require to be examined in great depth.


Instead, I would love to talk about what the cutter did with the part of the trousers around the pelvis. I'll have to admit that due to a slight imbalance of my pelvis, it appears that my left leg is slightly shorter than my right leg.


While this could always be fixed down the road with proper stretching exercise, I had my tailor taken in a tiny bit of fabrics on the left so that the cuff would land on the same level at the cuff.


This, by the way, is something you should expect from a good tailor. A good tailor could always cover up your imperfections with the garment.



Moving onto the waistcoat.


The waistcoat is something that I was very excited to try on finally as it is the garment which I spent the most time on designing out of all three pieces.


And I'm glad that it was executed in a nice manner. As a five-button waistcoat, the length of the front is just at the right point. I suppose the buttoning points of the waistcoat would be placed correctly by where the pins are in the picture.



While the lapels as well as the breast pocket of the waistcoat have not been cut yet, you could briefly see how it is going to be like when it is finished.


The peak lapels, in particular, is something that I really look forward to. In contrast to what the market usually offers, my tailors had the peak lapels come with a strong width; making this piece a very bold and powerful statement.



The back of the waistcoat, however, needs some adjustments.


Similar to what I encountered with the suit jacket during the first-fitting, the back of the waistcoat is cut to accommodate a 'standardize' Hongkongese back.


Nonetheless, this, along with the width of the waist, are some easy alterations that do not require much effort to fix. I wouldn't worry too much about it.



Finally, the jacket itself.


First of all, in contrast to the previous fitting, you could see much of the extra space at the shoulder area has been taken in. It is much better now, though there are still some room there. I expect it would be taken in even further.


As for the buttoning point; since I made the decision to have it to be lowered slightly in order to have a right amount of distance between the roll-button and the center button, it looks much more proportioned.


Other than that, it looks perfect.


A picture of me with the head cutter.

And pretty much that's about it. By the next time I see the garment again, it would already be completed and be delivered straight to London.


There are, of course, some uncertainty on how the suit would look like; especially with the lapels of the waistcoat undone, as well as the inter-lining not being sewn yet.


However, it is always important to have trust in your tailors. Bespoke tailoring is a process which both the client and the tailor learn more about each other through time.


As for now, I am looking forward to see how the suit would be like.


A picture of me with David, who have assisted me with fabric-choosing effortlessly throughout the course of 2 months.

#Crafts #TaiPanRow #bespoke #tailoring #suit #design #fitting

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