Suit Supply MTM Suit: First-Fitting
Updated: Jan 13, 2019
This is a part of a series on a MTM 3 piece suit made for me by Suit Supply.
Click here to learn more about part I of the series, which I addressed why did I decide to go for a MTM suit this time as well as the measuring process for this suit.
First of all, I am happy to announce that after weeks of waiting, I was finally able to pop back to Suit Supply for the first-fitting for my Made-To-Measure suit that I commissioned back in October.
In case if you are wondering, the reason why it took several weeks extra for the first-fitting to happen was really because there were some issues with the fabrics earlier on.
I wasn't surprised about this, however, since I always knew this 9oz cream fabric from the Holland & Sherry 1976 Royal Mile bunch book has been running low in availability for a period of time already. I was actually more surprised that they actually managed to have enough fabrics to make a 3-piece suit.
But anyway, let's dive into my first-fitting process now by first focusing on the jacket.
Overall speaking, I quite enjoy the result of the jacket. The first thing which really came to my mind when I put the jacket on is how clean it is around the waistline.
The fact that they took out the excess material from the front instead contributed a lot to this result as well.
This is because when you try to make the waist slimmer (dramatically) for a RTW suit, what ended up happening is that you have a disproportionate front and back balance.
So I'm glad that worked out just fine.
The structure of the jacket is something which I found quite interesting as well.
As you could see from the picture above, this time I was able to go full unstructured with no paddings and canvas at all for the shoulders and the chest respectively. Giving a rather casual look.
So it turned out to be rather similar to the soft Neapolitans, but just it doesn't have that shirt-shoulders of theirs.
Now, I'm not denying that the jacket looks a bit loose in the pictures because the drop isn't that distinctive between the shoulders and the waist. Rather, I feel like the rather loose sleeves play a bigger role in here.
To be fair, for suits that don't have much drape in particular, you really do need to have the sleeves be closer-fitted in order to be proportionate to the structure.
For that reason, I had Fabio taken out the excess material along the sleeves, as shown above.
Then there is one minor aspect which really is more about the design for the jacket -- that you can't really have a boutonniere loop with this fabric or cream suit in general.
Now, it might work if the thread is white or cream; but because the highlight color of this suit is red, it has to be removed in any case.
It is rather unfortunate, I must say, as you only tend to find boutonniere loops in higher quality suits. But then again, I don't usually wear a boutonniere so it is not a big issue.
Moving onto the waistcoat.
In that piece on the prologue, I mentioned I had to give up the design about having the lapels for the waistcoat since it is a MTM suit after all. But I still decided to go for it; after all a cream DB waistcoat is a versatile piece which you could pretty much pair with everything. So here I have it, a very unique 8-buttons DB waistcoat.
To be fair it's an alright design. The little problem I have though is with the width of the jetted pockets. They are slightly overpowering compared to the rest of the waistcoat.
The issue is that not only would I be taking in some excess fabrics from the side, but also with this type of DB waistcoat; you really want the pockets to be a little bit smaller.
Additionally, I would say if the pockets are placed somewhere slightly higher, it would have also been better as well.
The problem with them being cut rather low is that the pockets themselves are rather shallow, and you just can't hold anything inside. But then this is rather a common issue with Suit Supply waistcoat in general, so there's not much I could complain about it.
With that said, I suppose it would still be one of my favorite waistcoats in any case because of its versatility.
Last but not least are the trousers.
What I spotted immediately after I put the trousers is actually how far back the side adjusters go. This is quite contrasting to trousers that have regular adjusters because what usually happens is that they are divided like a 30/70 for the front and back rather than like this.
But it wouldn't necessarily affect the appearance of the trousers. Chances that you would actually tighten the side adjusters to bend the front/ back balance is fairly low. In other words, it's more like a stylistic choice than a practicality matter.
What needs to be fixed for the trousers is mostly the bum and the thigh area being too roomy in general.
They are going to be taken in as well unsurprisingly. But I was also quite cautious about taking the excess fabrics from the inside would affect the appearance of the single outward pleat.
But I am certain that Fabio would do a good job on getting that right so I am not too worried about that for now.
The suit would be ready to be picked out in a few days. Stay tuned to my blog or my Instagram account for the latest updates about this suit.
#Crafts #Suit #SuitSupply #MadetoMeasure #MTM #fitting #tailoring