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Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Trousers: First-Fitting

Updated: Jan 13, 2019

This is a part of a series on a bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury.

Click here to learn more about the prologue of the series, which I addressed the concept behind this pair of trousers as well as moments during my first visit there.

Pattern-making by Head cutter John McCabe. (Courtesy of Whitcomb and Shaftesbury)

I found the first-fitting process is always the most exciting part about getting something tailored -- you could start to see how the garment is starting to come together nicely from the original piece of cloth that you have chosen earlier.

And this is definitely the case for my trousers I commissioned at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. So after 7 weeks from my initial visit, I finally received an update from my tailor Emily that my trousers are ready for first-fitting.

Upon entering the showroom, the first thing I've noticed when I saw the trousers was how it has a slightly shade different than what I recalled. The cloth (as shown above) turns out to have a richer and more yellowish shade of cream.

Well it might be because of the lighting there; but in any case I actually prefer it, as it wouldn't look too pale under bright light, especially for colder seasons.

Anyway, after some catching-up with Emily and Sian, I then proceeded to the fitting room for the try-on.

As I was slowing putting on the trousers, I automatically scan what's not right about the trousers. I suppose that is rather natural, however, since everyone tends to look for the errors rather than what's been executed correctly.

They turned out to be alright. I mean, certainly, there were extra materials for the waistband as well as for the thigh in general. The extra width for the waistband is really normal, so there's no need to complain about it.

But it is the inner-thighs area that worths discussion. As you could see from the picture above, there were definitely some extra room along that area that could be taken in.

But for pleated trousers, especially for double pleats, you really want them to be cut rather loose for the first-fitting.

I've learnt a painful lesson before that if the trousers are tight enough for the first trial, you would run into the dangerous territory where the pleats are turned open and not forming a straight line after taking in.

Taking this into consideration, Sian thought it would actually be a greater idea to take out the excess materials from inside. Theoretically, this would actually turn out nicer than doing it from outside as it would be less disruptive to the pleats.

In any case, I am looking forward to see how it goes.

(Courtesy of Whitcomb and Shaftesbury)

Another adjustment we've made is to take out some fabrics around the bum area. (as illustrated from picture above) After all, I wanted the trousers to have a sharper and cleaner line in general.

Both Sian and I realized this is a particular problem for higher waist trousers as well. The thing is that the curve of your bum doesn't usually start right below the waistband under such circumstances.

So in contrary to regular trousers, there is really no need to account for more material to allow more flexibility for movements at that area. But this is rather minor, really, and could be easily fixed.

(Courtesy of Whitcomb and Shaftesbury)

But as I said earlier, you tend to focus on the mistakes than what has been executed correctly during the first-fitting process.

As you could see from the picture above, the trousers are almost perfect for a first-fitting. Not only are the trousers sitting just at where I wanted them to be (around the belly), but also the leg line is very clean and sharp.

On top of that, the trousers opening sits very nicely with the Balmoral boots I was wearing on that day as well. No signs of being too baggy.

And that's pretty much about it. I'm really satisfied with how things are close to perfection for first-fitting. Aside from that, the trousers should be ready for a second-fitting anytime soon. Please look forward.

For more in-depth information about the concept for the trousers and the fabric, check out my previous post here.



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